Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
